Bike talk - Page 50 - Rubicon Owners Forum
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post #491 of 497 (permalink) Old 11-10-2019, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thatís a lot of miles. Bet you slept good last night!

Yep, I slept pretty good.

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post #492 of 497 (permalink) Old 11-29-2019, 10:51 PM
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Well... new chain coming. 800 miles on a gx eagle, which as it seems is about all anyone gets from that chain. Threw the checker on it and it failed the .75. Going to try out a xx1 eagle. Lighter, allegedly 2xs the wear resistance. We will see. I'll degrease it and wax it.

Was kind of hoping the gx would have lasted longer. But several internet sources all seemed to indicate 1200km/800mi was all they ever got. Seems the gx is an excellent chain for a mtb, especially at the price. But it doesn't last as long.
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post #493 of 497 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Well... new chain coming. 800 miles on a gx eagle, which as it seems is about all anyone gets from that chain. Threw the checker on it and it failed the .75. Going to try out a xx1 eagle. Lighter, allegedly 2xs the wear resistance. We will see. I'll degrease it and wax it.

Was kind of hoping the gx would have lasted longer. But several internet sources all seemed to indicate 1200km/800mi was all they ever got. Seems the gx is an excellent chain for a mtb, especially at the price. But it doesn't last as long.

How many cogs on the back? If it's 11 cogs, you don't have to replace the chain till it drops .5.
What chain are you going to use now? I get good mileage on the Sram chains I use and they are cheap, around 18-22 bucks, and they shift better compared to the overpriced KMC chains, and Shimano chains.
I think it a Sram PC1130. Since I started waxing I get around 2,500 -3000 miles on them. I'm sure this will differ with a dirt bike with all the added debris.
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post #494 of 497 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 10:39 AM
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It's a 1x12. The chain has already worn more than .5. It is at .75. It is a tight .75, but the checker will go without too much force.

I'm going to try the sram xx1 chain. High dollar for sure. But the reports has been good.
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post #495 of 497 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 06:25 PM
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I haven't run the XX1, but my experience with chains is that usually one level down from the highest spec usually has the best durability. Shimano, SRAM, KMC and Campy all try to shave a few extra grams off the top of the line chain. They all do so with hollow pins and/or cutouts in the links and they all show some reduction in life between 20 and 50%. Fine if you're on a sponsored race team, but not so great if you've got a budget.

I have an XX bike, so I've experienced its 2X10 predecessor. It didn't last long and it took out my XX cassette with it. I wasn't paying close enough attention to the wear. An expensive lesson. I prefer the KMC 10 speed chains and run the ones with the gold titanium nitrite coatings on that bike. I don't like the blinginess of the gold, but I find that they hold the lubrication really well, are very durable and inexpensive.

However, I tried 11 speed KMC and the shape of the outer link clicks in the Ultegra and DuraAce cassettes. They're just a little too bulky. Which is kinda odd because based on what I've found KMC is manufacturing the top Ultegra/XT and DuraAce/XTR chains for Shimano currently. Our 11sp road bikes all run Shimano Ultegra/XT. Unfortunately I don't think they've got a 12 speed compatible chain right now.

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post #496 of 497 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 10:40 PM
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Interesting mrladelwig. My inclinations are generally like yours, a level below their top notch stuff. I was planning on getting the XO sram. Which would be at that just below level. Only two things changed my mind in this case: 1. I had read a couple places where the xx1 had more wear resistance and lasted longer, 2xs as long actually. 2. It looked and seemed identical to the XO chain, but it has the Ti Ni coating. Not a fan of the color, but maybe that had some play in the wear claims others had?

I'm not sure about any of it. I guess I will find out. I kind of liked the sound of the KMC dlc coated 12sp chains that they came out with. But they were uber $$$ and what few things out there about them was mixed at best.

I've been doing the chain wax lubes deal. No complaints. Can't say it made my gx chain last longer, but it did last as long as what others had claimed their chains maxed out at, which is good. I am going to try my wax with some ptfe (teflon) and molydisulfide added. Which would essentially make it the same as the molten speed wax products out there. Just for giggles and see.

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post #497 of 497 (permalink) Old 12-01-2019, 04:43 PM
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I'm not sure about any of it. I guess I will find out. I kind of liked the sound of the KMC dlc coated 12sp chains that they came out with. But they were uber $$$ and what few things out there about them was mixed at best.

The issue with those ultra hard coatings is that they don't change how the chain stretches with use. The stretching of the chain isn't because of wear at the pins and rollers. It is because the links themselves have very slight inelastic yield with use. I don't know the exact make up or heat treatment and work applied to the steel used in chains, but they get stamped out and move at high volume, so can't be too fancy. My guess is that the steel is deforming at the grain boundaries where it is weaker than the overall rating of the steel. When the links have part of their structure reduced, that increases the psi of the remaining steel, which increases the rate of inelastic yield, microscopic as it may be. I don't think hollow pins have any impact on this, they're just weaker and have more opportunity to fail when loaded cross-chained. As a bigger cyclist those are the reasons I have reservations about the flyweight chains.



The Ti Ni coating doesn't make the chain last longer because of mechanical wear resistance as it is used in tools like drill bits. In fact that would actually make it a bit worse on the cog teeth. It has a bit of texture which holds the lubrication on the chain better which reduces the wear the chain creates on the gears and keeps it quiet, which reduces the wear on your brain.


That goes to the other part of the equation. The chain does create wear on the gears (and to a slight, but less important degree to the rollers). When the chain is carrying debris, it can then use it like sandpaper on the faces of the gears it contacts. That's why it is important to use the correct type of lubrication for conditions and keep the chain clean. A wet lubrication will shed the debris with use in wet or muddy weather, but is greasy and attracts and retains dirt and sand in dry conditions. A dry formulation lubrication can break down and get washed away in wet weather. This wear is compounded as the chain stretches because the contact sits deeper into the tooth as the tooth seats into the chain, scraping the tooth surface and galling the metal. This wear shows up as ridges on the outer edges of the contacting face of the cog. As those teeth shift further back in the profile, the shift ramps no longer align, and shifting becomes less precise.
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