Fuel mileage and good MPGs on Jeeps shouldn't be in the same paragraph should they...LOL!! but that not why we bought them is it..LOL!!

update
I've bought & did a test run (9hour drive interstate) after I picked the trailer up directly from the factory in GA
the trailer a 6'6''H x 7'W x 14' +2' of V-nose enclosed trailer tandem axle with brakes
it completely dwarfs the jeep LJ rubi

I have not weighed the trailer yet but is speced at 2020pds on the title
I had approximatly 1000pds inside the trailer during tow

its the height that get the jeep pushing the wind but the vnose helps

the brakes work well with the trailer & proportional controller
the trailer tows straight with no tail waggin the dog phenomenom

if I tucked in the draft of a semi I could run 6th gear
but found 5th gear 2900rpm to be optimum approx 63mph
it would pull much faster but I have found in my jeep anything above 3000rpm it really sucks the petro
mpg dropped from my normal 15mpg to 9mpg & that is with running the AC full blast
speeds over 70mph I found the trailer gets slightly unhappy so 63mph 2900rpm was the towing speeds - no issues

my jeep weighs significatly less than some quoted above @ 3870pds
JK wheels did slow acceleration some over the stock wheels - no other mods

so to answer the question - yes it can be done but your mods to your jeep affect the final outcome

thanks for the update, I was kinda curious about this and what ever happened with the trailer scenario.

I also forgot
I encountered a very heavy rainstorm in GA
raining hard enough that the water had no time to drain off the road
the front end of the jeep got "flighty" @ 60mph so slowed to 50mph

I attributed this to the attitude the toungue weight put the jeep in
I ordered a set of airbags to eliminate this before I tow the trailer anymore just to correct this & help prevent any cupping of the front tire tread

So you went ahead with it. I was a little surprised with most of the comments on this thread.

Before you add airbags to your TJ, keep in mind you might not want to flex it out on trails, since you just made your Jeep into a full time tow rig...which makes no sence to me. I have had air bags on my trucks, and if you take them into a shop with a lift, I had to tell them about the bags before the lifting of the trucks, or air bag damage would occur (tear).

I know FL is pretty flat in most of the places I have been, this just wouldn't fly here in CO. One panic stop and you will most likely change your mind. Most people (including myself) have to learn the hard way from a close call or an accident. I was lucky with a close call.

I was glad to see you got dual braking axles..this will help with fishtailing if you get really out of control...hit the go pedal and use your brake controller should straighten you out.

Good luck, I have seen way too many accidents from people doing this sort of thing, it knots up my stomach.

I'll stress again - this is a one time occurance - the lj will not be a full time tow rig

airbags cost 160$ f/r not a big deal

I havent used my lockers once since i moved to FL as the type of wheelin down here does not excite me
nor will my jeep ever be a full time tow rig its my street vehicle with good off-road capability

too many compromises in making a DD a good wheeler your either on one end of the spectrum or the other

if I'm going to go wheelin once in AZ I'm going to build a full time rock buggy w/o streetable compromises...

o2

I have gotten some negative comments, here on ROF, for my towing with the Rubi at, or near, the rated towing capacity.
I do a lot of towing (stock gears/35" tires/MOPAR heavy duty tow hitch with 7-pin wiring harness).
Yes, the towing capacity does go down as you add lift.

I mostly tow light subcompact cars like Chevrolet Vegas(2000 lbs) and aircooled VWs(1600 lbs).
I flat tow VWs and use car trailers for the Vegas and larger cars.
I also tow boats.
.....and use a 5x8 utility trailer for everything (both on-road and off-road motorcycles, camping gear, landscaping crap, mowers, scrap metal - read - cut up Vegas and VWs, etc).
I even use the hitch-haul receiver rack for smaller stuff, etc.
I have towed heavier vehicles, but use a much lighter trailer to keep weight down.


Here's some of my observations/input:


Towing is very dangerous and should not be taken lightly.

I do not advocate exceeding the rated towing limit !!!!
It is there for a reason (mostly braking safety).

If you are not an experienced trailorer....... I would advise against towing near the limit.

Setting up your load with the correct tongue weight is the most important factor when towing..... well, except stopping (which is impacted by tongue weight)..... hence the rated load limit, as well as tongue weight limit.

Don't expect to be in the fast lane.
MPG will be well under 12 mpg regardless of load weight. I've seen as low as 8 mpg but I negotiate a lot of mountains up in KY on I-75.
3000 rpm is good for normal uphill grades...... Here in the Appalachian Mountains, 4000 rpm is needed, often in short bursts (with stock gearing).

Keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front of you.
Anticipate your stops.
Look for alternative paths in an emergency braking situation. This applies to any vehicle in a towing situation..... not just Jeeps.

Unless you have trailer brakes, braking with the LJ will SUCK as you near the 3500 lb rated limit ! The 4-wheel disc brakes are very helpful, though.
I HIGHLY recommend using trailer brakes.

In mountains or hilly areas, following 18-wheelers is a general good rule. They have similar speed variations on asents/desents.... allow great following distances...... and if you crash into the back of one in an emergency braking situation, your collateral damage is minimized......

Here's my latest 800 mile round trip towing excursion...... bringing home a 1960 VW Bug from Indianapolis (I-75 again).

VW is only 1600 lbs.
I was near 3500 lbs total weight.
Notice how the weight is centered over both axles (VWs are rear engined) and the Jeep is squated just about right to give it adequate tongue weight.