There are many sets of instructions available re: how to splice Amsteel Blue and, in general, 12-strand Class 2 line. Samson's web site publishes their instructions, and you can find the procedure with photographs done by, I think, the Forest Service. I only wanted to make a few comments here about my new experience, and not provide any instructions.

First off, it's just as easy as folks say it is. I mean, it's real easy. What I found in doing several splices this evening is that it's easy, but you'd still benefit from doing a few at home before you really need to do one. This has to do with confidence in performing the procedure, and in having some feel for the material.

Secondly, it's clear you don't need any 'special' tools. I bought Samson's aluminum fid and pusher, not having ever seen first-hand how the splice is done. Now that I've done it, I'd say a wooden dowel or wood or modified aluminum knitting needle would work just as well, and the pusher is completely unecessary. Didn't use it at all. In fact, you could do the splice without a fid, too, and with little or no trouble.

The last thing is the issue of whip stitching the finished splice. I just recently read a comment on the internet that the writer doesn't do the lock stitch on the finished splice, and doesn't know of anyone who has.

As is mentioned elsewhere in published procedures, the lock stitching doesn't add any strength to the splice and isn't intended to...this is true enough. However, even after my repeated dressing of the splice to ensure all was tight 'n right, it was still a 30 second matter to 'unlock' the outer rope, and work the inner rope completely out of the splice. In other words, if the splice is manipulated just right by working the outer braid, you can dismantle the splice effortlessly. This would never happen in normal use, but the lock stitch would ensure it didn't happen with someone idly goofing around with the rope. Once that outer rope (free end) is loosened, which is easily done, the splice practically falls apart.

Anyway, I make these comments to encourage folks to maybe get a short length of 12-strand and take the time to learn at least the eye splice for field repair. I think it's a great thing to have done and it's nice to have no concerns about doing it. With some practice, I estimate a splice should take about 10-15 minutes.

As for trail kit, I'd say a sharp knife or a few single-edge razor blades, a pair of small wire cutters or sharp scissors, a roll of electrician's tape and a 1/4" or 5/16" diameter aluminum or plastic knitting needle with end cut off--you have everything needed for a repair. That, and knowing the fid length for your rope, which you can mark on your knitting needle/dowel with a file. This length can be found in several places online, and probably at the Samson site.

Bongo: prior to getting a gift of a "splice kit" last year, I made up a simple one to repair 5/16-3/8 line.
1 pair of "new"Fiskars scissors (they must be sharp)
1 medium sized carpet needle wrapped with a 2' length of nylon carpet thread
1 felt tip pen to mark line
1 ballpoint pen,the old school type (the bottom pointed hollow section makes a good fid)
1 one half used up roll of E tape
1 set of instructions copied from Samson's website
All this fit in an old fabric sunglasses bag,tossed into my recovery bag.
Later on I cut an old VW pushrod tube at an angle to create a homebrew fid.
Every jeep should carry a multi tool (Leatherman,Gerber)that covers the knife and a needle nose plier if needed.
Splicing IS easy to do unless your hands are really cccold on a snow run and a buddie brings a new line along and wants to shorten it a bit cause he knows you "don't mind"
As for the lockstitch I reccomend at least looping a few threads thru the line,Peeps always wanna "play"with the newly spliced lines and invariably find out how easy you can put it all back togather again.

Yes indeed. I was impressed at just how slippery this stuff is. What's the deal with the carpet needle...izat for doing the lock stitch?

I'm actually looking forward to doing the whipping twine thing...just for aesthetics if nothing else.

Glad you listed your improvised kit...this is the sort of thing I enjoy the most at this and a few other forums. Having all the 'right' tools, materials and equipment sure can make a fine looking product. An awful lot to be said for 'adapt and improvise' though, even when you don't have to.

[Yes indeed. I was impressed at just how slippery this stuff is. What's the deal with the carpet needle...izat for doing the lock stitch?

I'm actually looking forward to doing the whipping twine thing...just for aesthetics if nothing else.]

The slightly curved flatened needle makes the lock stitch much easier,also works when creating a very tight "whipped" end.I am awfull on those,especially with well used line.

FYI: You can buy fids from marine supply stores. Only a couple of bucks for a used one, I think they're seven or eight bucks new.

Ya, but that ends the concept of "use what U got"

I attempted my first splice with a tube thimble, and added a little whipping twine to see how it would hold:



I'd prefer to put the splice under a few 1,000 lbs of tension first, but working only with my big toe I was unable to get even close to that.

While on the topic of improvising, I didn't have a needle so I cut a 3 inch piece of silver solder about 0.035" in diameter, rounded one end with the file, the notched the other end with a knife-edge riffler. I bent the wire at that notch as far as I though I could without it breaking. I put a slip knot in the end of my whipping twine and put the noose around the notch in the 'needle', and it worked well enough to lock stitch the splice.

It sounds a bit kinky but try some "French Whipping" on your next splice http://www.marinews.com/French-Whipping-532.php

Not only does it look cool it gives the whipping a better chance of not unraveling if one wrap is damaged. See number 3 in this link http://www.mikelucasyachting.co.uk/arti ... e_work.htm

Regards, John.

I love improvisation.

Great links VjohnV!

I've seen those French Whips before and assumed they were more complex.

They would make good hand grips for tools - or how about leather cord around the steering wheel?

I definitely will, and thanks for the link. I think the French whipping technique could be combined with the buried loop that I used on this whipping, and that would be cool. I'll try to get decent photos. I was just fixin' to get a hank of 1/2" rope down at Home Depot for practicing knots, and now you got me all started down yet another rabbit hole. I love rabbit holes!

I just went through this process making my rope into an extension. First end was complete in 20 minutes. Other end was a nightmare. The electrical tape kept hampering the process. I tried to do it several times and failed. Went to Wallyworld and bought a pr of large aluminum knitting needles. Popped the end cap off the way we would open a beer bottle on a bumper or counter top years ago, inserted line and crimped it. Done in 10 minutes. Screw anyone who laughs at my knitting needle in my trail tool kit.

This is the second time I've read through this thread... and both times it gave me anxiety!

I've spliced my rope to convert it to a hook on the end of the winchline. Took me like three nights, about two hours each night and very tired hands, to get the job done. I used knitting needles from the start and followed the directions from the manufacturer (Not winchline but winchline's manufacturer). My wife, who is a superb knitter, also helped me and neither of us made much progress very quickly. I hope I NEVER have to do that again. I'd love to actually see someone do this properly in a 10 minute video. Put it on a video and next time we all wheel in Moab, I'll buy beers for the table!

I spent more time and days than your 6 hrs. I also managed to trap a set punch, 2 pens and a reamer in the rope. The taped rope would either separate from the "make do" fid or the tape would bind up the movement. I had to cut the rope and free the trapped "fids". What started out as a 150' line that broke about 15' from the end resulted in being a 69" (I know, I measured) extension.

I was fortunate to have hands on training from Jon when he came down over New Years to wheel.

He did 2 types of splicing and then had me do them while he watched , it was a big help for me to be able to ask questions while he was showing me and then while I did them he could critique me.

Thanks again Jon!!

So when can we expect you to post a link to your demo video?

I picked up the splice kit from Thor, and have been very happy with it. The line on my Jeep got a nasty cut from the ARB bumper last year. I called Thor and asked him what to do. He said I could send the line in, or just get the repair kit and fix it my self. Knowing it might not be the last time, I picked up the kit. It comes with the perfect size thid, making the job a lot easier. After reading the instructions, it took me about 20 minutes to cut out the cut and repair the line. Since then, I've used the line and everything has held great.

Give Thor a call, and he will fix your line splicing needs.

I don't want to make Jon's training look bad if I don't do it exactly like he showed me, and then put it on video

I think I had Thor's kit too to work with, or at least I looked over his kit to see if there was much difference from the materials I had. I can't remember. And I did have manufacturer instructions.

You must have the magic touch, Phillip! It was recommended me that, if I couldn't do it, to find a sailing shop as sailboats always need this work done.

f9k9, after reading that, I don't feel so bad...

In fairnes to ya'll I have to admit that I have spent a bit of time on the trails with Jon and Thor.
FWIW My first synthetic line was "loaned" to me by Jon to evaluate/thrash before "Winchline.com"existed.I have since used /abused (trail tested) most of Vikings gear as well as many "others".After a period of use/abuse I send it back for evaluation.However, I BUY my personal recovery equip from Viking Offroad just like everyone else.I just get it at a discount and before it's "out there"They are very strict about testing/evaluating in realworld wheeling and competition.If it turns out to be sub par or uber expensive to produce U won't be able to purchase it from Viking.Prospective products are often tried and dropped.All good mfgs/vendors do the same.
To splice new line is very easy,Soft,used line not quite so.The key is to "bunch up" the line as U push the fid thru,giving the line a larger ID.Proper trimming of the strands."tapering"of the end is most important.Any tape used on the line or fid must be very good quality and TIGHT so as not to come off inside the splice.Be patient and you WILL succeed.Then your buds will be draggin thier lines to your camp so you can practice some more.Though I have done many splices,pigs will fly before I can do one splice before Jon has completed 3-4 with sips of beverage between each.
Stu Olson has a vid on his site of Jon doing a "trail splice" with his ball point pen.Jon makes it look so easy,Ha Ha.
The abilty to repair a line in the field,make your own custom lengths,limit straps ect. is one of the top reasons I like synthetic line.An old abused 100' line can still be usefull as a 40'-50' extension as most of our line sits unused on the drum protected from the elements under the first 40'-50' we normally use day in and day out.

my fid of choice is one of the clear bick pens. take the tip, and ink tube out leaving just the shell, and it works excellent

Thanks! I think you missed a spot.

Good info. This may be of use.
http://www.ropeworks.biz/reader/fid.pdf