This will be a slowly ongoing thread about oil filters. I haven't got the time to piece together a whole presentation like the links we all refer to on the 'net, but this should provide at least a few folks here with some information not presented elsewhere.

As with all analyses, they come with a disclaimer. Here's mine:

I don't want to endorse a product. I don't wish to turn this into a "what do YOU recommend, Doc?" thread. I simply want to post some pics, show you what I see, and what WE as Jeepers might like or dislike about what we're looking at.

With that said…… we’ll move on to some basic background info:

MOST filters will do fine for the most part. Engine oil filters are really just catching large debris and they should be otherwise inert, not impeding the system operation or adding debris to the lube system. If the filter can do that, then it is usually OK to use.

BUT, some filters will do this better than others, and if cost isn't prohibitive, then why not look for the filters that stand the best chance of serving our needs?

THAT is the basis of this thread.

So what ARE our needs?

Our needs are NOT terribly unique, but we have ONE.... We have a sideways oil filter. Sideways oil filters REQUIRE an anti-drain valve to perform best, so they remain full for each start of the engine. If the filter either has no anti-drain valve or a defective one, the oil CAN drain back to the sump after shutdown, which usually makes engine rattle noises on startup. While it really doesn't hurt anything, noise is noise, and if it can be avoided, we should do what we can to avoid it, right?

Another thing we may need to consider is canister strength. While many filters have burst ratings, we're not drag racers, so burst ratings are not too important to Jeepers. What we need is thick canisters that can withstand minor debris damage and be strong enough to NOT collapse when we try to get them off with filter wrenches during the oil change.

Lastly, we need to be sure the filter has the correct assembly. Since filters are V-E-R-Y price sensitive items, filter makers tend to focus on the attributes individually, rather than the performance overall. What that means is simply this: All the right parts may be in there, but they actually may not work well together as a unit. This is why we take them apart and look once in a while....You'll see what I mean when we get into this deeper.

Some things that many THINK are important, really aren't. Filter capacity isn't as important as many think. Oil filters generally will NEVER plug, so how much filter area is in there isn't terribly important. What IS good for "big" filters is the increase in OIL capacity. In other words, if the filter adds the ability to hold more oil in the lube system, you're generally better off than if your filter can trap more dirt. In other vehicles this may NOT be true, but we're talking Jeep 4.0's here, NOTHING else.

So, for a Jeep 4.0, we'd like the biggest canister that we can fit, one that's not thin like a beer can, and holds lots of oil. It needs to retain that oil after shutdown, so it MUST have a good anti-drain valve. Then, it needs to have a filter bypass valve so the oil can flow IF the element should ever clog, and that needs to be set for AROUND 10PSI on the 4.0, as per Jeep. It also needs to seal internally well enough so that dirty oil can't escape the filtering media, otherwise it's not really a filter.....right? That's really about all we need. Everything else is for show...... sales gimmicks or installation aids. Grippy stuff on the canisters, welded nuts, red gaskets or metalflake paint with racing stripes doesn't make a better filter. Teflon stuffed inside doesn't either.

Soooooooooooooooooooo. That concludes the intro. Without further ado, we’ll peel some apart and looksee inside.

I suppose the best one to start with is the stocker.....The one you had originally when your rig was new.



In a word….It’s “cheap”. Made with a wafer thin canister of only .012” steel. A Leaf spring holding the element to the endplate… not uncommon, but cheap. The bypass is integral to the element…which eliminates the chance for leaks. That’s good. The filter media has a metal inner core to prevent implosion, this is also good. The media end seals are metal, which is also good.

There is a string used to hold the media from explosion which is chintzy, but not uncommon. The string CAN cut the element paper, so that’s a drawback. Endplate and antidrain valve seal nice and are made well.

So how does it fare? Impact resistance: below average. Oil capacity: below average. Filtering ability: average. Antidrainback: average. Bypass: above average.

Great! So if nobody objects, the other filters that will be compared will be the slightly taller Ford style filters. Since all the aftermarket brands don't have the short Jeep filter readily available and there's REALLY no legitimate reason to use it anyway, we'll dissect the PH8A/FL1A/51515 style filters, which IS what everyone oughta be using as a MIMIMUM anyhow. Of the brands that do offer both, the ONLY difference is the overall element and canister height, the specs, construction and materials used in the "short" versus the "long" filters is otherwise identical.

I would have used a MOPAR "Ford" filter if there was one on the shelf. The reason for doing this also helps show the internal differences when going to a slightly larger filter, and even the jumbo "2 quart" filter, which we'll probably cover last.

Tomorrow we'll do the Wal-Mart Super-Tech filter. I have about 8 apart so far, I'm still hunting for a few others.

The next victim will be the Wal-Mart Supertech version of the Ford filter.



This filter has some nice attributes, but falls short in a few ways. it'll be a good example of what we DON'T want.

For reference, you'll find a pic of the Super-Tech and stock elements side by side here

First: There's something missing in the picture, and I didn't take it. The filter assembly LACKS the required bypass valve. There's nothing inside this filter to bypass the media if the element should clog. Oops! The element is an open center design which means there are even more places for dirt to bypass the filtering media entirely, and it will. The center core is plastic, which says "cheap". The canister is .016" thick steel, which is nicely made. The filter is held together with a leaf spring and the endplate and antidrainback valve are well made.

Impact resistance: Above average
Oil capacity: Average
Filtering ability: below average.
Antidrainback: Average
Bypass: NONE!

Here's the popular Motorcraft FL1A



Hmmm. Looks like it's made by the same folks as the stocker, eh?

Good eye! Here they are side-by-side



So, the same stuff applies to the Motorcraft. The canister is the same thin steel, the parts inside are interchangeable. It's a bigger stocker painted white.

No need to overanalyze this one.

Impact resistance: below average
Oil capacity:above average
Filtering ability: average
Antidrainback: average
Bypass: above average

This is the Fram PH8A

You'll see why many dislike them.
Compared to stock it looks better, but if you compare it to the Motorcraft version which is the stock design, you'll see it's inferior. It's open on both ends, with paper endplates. The bypass is robust, but it has no positive seal and can allow dirty oil to pass through the end. The endplate and antidrain are OK. The canister is .015"
Impact resistance: Average
Oil capacity: Above average
Filtering ability: below average
Antidrainback: Average
Bypass: below average

We can put any Q&A in the "oil filter questions" that 3 Rivers started in this forum.

I'll keep the presentation moving along.

Here's the WIX 51515



This filter's well made. The element has a closed metal endplate and it uses a coil spring to keep it sealed. The coil spring is superior to the leaf spring, because it can't lose tension like the leaf does, when it gets dropped or banged. Leafs can break and they sometimes do. The better arrangement is a coil (but TJ owners already knew that)

The bad part about this filter is the bypass valve.... It's not sealedto the element, so dirt can bypass the filter at any time. Canister construction is .015" steel and the endplate and antidrain are well made

Impact resistance: average
Oil capacity: above average
Filtering ability: below average.
Antidrainback: below average
Bypass: average

Here's the Hastings LF115



Another well made filter. closed endplate design with integral bypass can't leak dirty oil into the clean oil. Real big coil spring compared to the WIX and well made endplate and antidrain

The canister is the toughest yet at .018". The only bad part is the element is seemingly poorly assembled as seen by the lousy pleat spacing in this pic

Impact resistance: above average
Oil capacity: above average
Filtering ability: above average.
Antidrainback: above average
Bypass: above average

Here's the Donaldson P550008



Another well made filter. A coil spring as tough as the Hastings, a closed metal element with a unique high flow integral bypass Canister is .019" thoughest of them all so far. The only issue I can see with this one is the antidrain. When it's installed, the seal lip just touches the induction welds which means it MAY leak down overnight.

Impact resistance: above average
Oil capacity: above average
Filtering ability: above average.
Antidrainback: below average
Bypass: above average

This is the Mobil 1 M1-301



The filter looks very well made.

An integrated bypass valve to eliminate dirt contamination of the clean oil. Closed end element with metal ends. Cheaper leaf spring construction, but that’s a minor issue. The canister is .020” thick, and the endplate is absolutely monstrous in thickness. There’s a full 5 threads cut into this thing. Very nice.
Impact resistance: above average
Oil capacity: above average
Filtering ability: above average.
Antidrainback: average
Bypass: above average

Here's the Purolator premium filter, called the PureOne:



Ick.

Unique bypass that's not sealed so dirt can pass. wafer thin endplate has only 2 threads and jellylike antidrainback valve. Canister’s thick though at .019”

Impact resistance: above average
Oil capacity: above average
Filtering ability: below average.
Antidrainback: below average
Bypass: below average

I'll finish this with an AMSOIL filter sometime this week. If anyone needs to see any other filter brands, post up in the other thread.

Here is the AMSOIL EaO15



It's actually a Donaldson synthetic media version of the P550008, which is a P169071.

The filter is constructed identically to the P550008, right down to the antidrain valve issue

Impact resistance: above average
Oil capacity: above average
Filtering ability: above average.
Antidrainback: below average
Bypass: above average

Here's the K&N HP-3001



It's 100% exactly identical to the Mobil 1 M1-301, even the component inked markings are the same. The ONLY difference is the welded "nut" on the K&N canister.

Impact resistance: above average
Oil capacity: above average
Filtering ability: above average.
Antidrainback: average
Bypass: above average