Getting my bushings replaced tomorrow...we'll see how long they last...Looking hard at the Currie control arms

Was just wondering how the "new style" bushings were holding up?
I just had to order front lower and uppers for my 5.5 LA. Looks like I had the old style bushings in there. I don't know how many miles are on them since i purchased the jeep with the lift already installed. But from reading this entire post it looks like this is something I'm going to have to replace quite often.
Should these be something to keep spare stock of????

I replaced mine this past summer and so far so good.

But analize your replacements well!!! They should have the markings as in the pics I posted earlier in this thread. If they don't then I would be questioning their make up. When you ordered, did you talk to a rep? And did you specify that you needed the NEW bushings made from the NEW compound? If you did, then you should be cool. If not then they still might send the upgraded bushings anyway. Regardless, check them.

Thanks for the info, I did speak with RE direct, however I did not specify that I wanted the new style bushing, I just naturally assumed that would send the newer ones since the old one had so many issue. I will be checking them for the 4 injection mold marks when the get here Friday.
One other question I have is when I replace the bushings, will I need to jack up the jeep if i just do one arm at a time?

Personally, if you have the time and motivation, I would suggest doing what I did and removing the whole arm, one arm at a time. Inspect both ends, if they are still good maybe disassemble and clean up the flex joints or pop in new races if one of them needs it. At least you can retighten them either way. And this makes removal and installation of the rubber bushings SO much easier IMHO. Just get the old one out, clean the "socket" they go into real well, lube the he'll out of it and the bushing with WD-40, sit it in there lined up the best you can... And with one good swift hit with a soft rubber mallet you will pop it right in there.

I did not Jack my jeep up, it stayed in the same spot on all 4s. But I did only remove one arm at a time. Some people do have to mess around with it though to get things back just so-so and all the bolts back lined up. Others, like me I guess, just get lucky.

I'm not sure about a SA kit, but with the LA kit you can easily remove each arm to replace the bushings. Be sure and remove and replace one arm at a time, and you shouldn't have a problem. Once an arm is removed, the axle will move slightly but will go back into place by rotating the tires.

Yea, that might have things out of adjustment... just slightly.

Thanks for the info and the tips, Will be doing the install Friday night.
I just hope the bushings lasts. I think after I get the bad ones replaced I will just order a complete set just in case.

ONE LAST THING!!!!! Smear antiseize on everything from A-hole to elbow!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Trust me! I learned a very hard lesson on that one!

Never seize goes on most everything. I hate having to remove a bolt later down the line and its rusted fast. At my father's place we have at least 3 jars of it.

Anti-seize is terribly sticky and annoying when applying it, but a LIFE SAVER later on down the road

The bushing from RE came in a day early. Right after I punch out at work I will be doing the install. The owner of the company is letting me pull the Jeep in the lower bay. Beats having to lay on the ground in 20deg weather.
The bushings I received do indeed have the four mold marks on them. Hopefully this will be the last time I have to replace them for awhile.
Anyone know if its easier to install the bushing in the arm then put in the bolt sleeves or it is just the same to install the sleeves into the bushings before putting them in the arms?

I installed mine with the sleeve out of the bushing. Then pushed the sleeve halves (the sleeve is in 2 pieces) in after the bushing was seated. Btw.... FWIW.... I put anti seize all over the sleeves also before putting them in the bushings.

Definitely either anti-seize the bolt or the inside of the sleeves - they have a habit of rusting together and then it's a PITA to get the bolt out of the frame down the road.

I will be putting anti-seize on the inside of the rubber bushing and the insides of the sleeves.
Thanks for the info.

Got all the bushings installed without issue. Made sure to anti-seize all the threads and bushings.
I don't want to hi-jack this thread so I posted here about the vibrations issues that I'm still having.

I tightened the bolts to the factory specs, IIRC the uppers were 55ftlbs both ends and the lower axle end was 130ftlbs.
I am not sure where the vibes are coming from, I was just hoping that the bushing being so bad was the cause.

Ditto on having the bad bushings. I bought my lowers used 2 years ago from 2 different people. My lower rears have the stock rubber bushings which are still nice and firm, but one flex joint needed repacking and tightening and the other new bushing. My fronts have the new style rubber bushing and both were split in half, but their flex joints were still nice and tight. Now that these have been addressed, and rebending my stock rear trackbar to align in the mounts and not hit the gastank holder, my Jeep handles and rides like a dream!

For what it's worth I used dish soap to install the bushings. Works like butta! Still, not a problem after 4500 mi. I still have the answer if needed though. Superflex joints at both ends.

Think I've posted this before. I like the RE joints because the preload can be adjusted as they wear. The currie's (last time I checked) used a snap ring design that requires a special tool. Had Currie's, I'll stick with the RE arms for my jeep.

I like the adjustable Flex joints too. The only way to prevent fast wear on a non adjustable is to shim it if you can get one in. I was able to shim one of my daystars, but it didn't last long. They should of stuck with the stock rubber ends IMHO.