New JK Rubi 4dr - Rubicon Owners Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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New JK Rubi 4dr

My wife hates to not have a car payment so she's getting rid of her 2013 Durango for a 4 dr Rubicon.
We are keeping the '06 LJ Rubi as it is family to us. The JK will be a grocery getter but we'll still do some wheelin with it so the Rubi was our choice.

Our questions are as follows:
1. Is getting the package with the HD 44 front axle worthwhile?
2. How long can I run the stock driveshafts before there are issues?
3. How much lift do we need to run 35" tires? We like it low if possible.
4. What all armor items will we need?

Thanks. Any advice is great.

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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BTW, we don't do any real serious trails, but many of the trails we do are nicer with low gears and lockers so we want the Rubi.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 10:40 PM
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I assume you mean the Rubicon recon edition. The axle is supposed to have 25% thicker tubes and heavy-duty end forgings, I guess the thicker tubes are to prevent the axle from bending, a problem I have heard about on the JK forums. It also has cast differential covers.
If you like the overall look of the package I would say go for it, if you are considering it just because of the improved axle there are ways around it, like the Artek front axle armor kit.
The recon also has metal bumpers which are winch ready and have removable end caps, a good thing if you are not planning on going with aftermarket bumpers. And letís not forget the vented hood.

Are you asking how high of a lift you can have before there is an issue? or how long will they last? It would be hard to answer how long as it would be dependent on how the vehicle is driven, lift, maintenance.... If you search the JK forums you will find answers all over the place from I torn the boots at 10K to I have 55K+ and going strong...

You can run 35" with as little as 2.5" of lift

For armor I went straight for the aluminum kit and hd crossmember from Artek

-Art
2004 Rubicon (auto), 4", TW 1350 Cv shaft, Skyjacker High clerance transfer skid...
2016 JKUR A blank canvas
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 10:41 PM
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I have about 45k miles on my rubi, 27k with 35" tires, I wheel 3-5 times per year. I ran 35s with no lift and flat front fenders for a year (you can cut the stock fenders to achieve the same clearance), with stock fenders a 2.5" lift or even a 2" budget boost is all you need to run 35s. I have a 3.5" AEV lift and it killed my rear driveshaft because I ended up with 4+ inches of lift (no rear fenders, stock rear plastic bumper and soft top) when I emailed AEV to ask about it they told me to put a heavy bumper and tire carrier or 150-200lbs of sandbags in the Jeep to drop the rear and lower the angle on the driveshaft. With a 4 door I don't think you'll have those issues. From wheeling with 4 doors I recommend either getting a soft top or taking the hard top off before wheeling. I've seen multiple windows blown out and damaged hard tops only on 4 doors. The fenders are likely to get damaged on the trails so that's a good thing to replace, or just not care about if they get banged up or torn off. Running without rear fenders I've done a lot of damage to my rear quarter-panels, so corner guards are in my very near future. Skid plates are always a good idea especially with the reduced breakover angle on the JKU. The rubi comes with rock rails, but they run pretty flush with the body, I'm looking to upgrade to something that sticks out a couple of inches to better keep rocks and such from damaging the body.

Dan

Silver 2014 2dr Rubicon Metal Cloak Aluminum Overland Fenders with aluminum inners, GenRight aluminum front bumper, Warn M8000, 17" AEV Savegre wheels, 35-12.5-17 Goodyear MTR Kevlar tires, AEV 3.5" lift, Metal Cloak adjustable control arms, Solid Differential covers with lube lockers, Adams drive-shafts
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, RECON package. I like the hood and axle, the rest ain't my cup of tea. For the price of the package a guy could do a lot of other stuff.

The wife got the body colored fenders so they will stay. Probably look at a short 2"-2.5" lift to run the 35" tires.

The Artek full aluminum skid looks great.

Any suggestions for bumpers? I don't do tire swings I do bigger tailgate hinges as that has worked great on my LJ. Jeep sells one that looks fair, but almost $900.00 is just silly.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 03:28 PM
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I'm looking at a HD tailgate for my JK as well, I have been looking at the MC sportgate, which sells for $600, and there is Smittybilt which sells for $500.

For bumpers I'm looking at Al because I'm trying to keep the weight in check, leaning towards Genright but haven't decided yet. But in all honestly there are endless styles and choices to pick from.

-Art
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2016 JKUR A blank canvas

Last edited by MxRubicon; 06-18-2017 at 03:43 PM.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MxRubicon View Post
I'm looking at a HD tailgate for my JK as well, I have been looking at the MC sportgate, which sells for $600, and there is Smittybilt which sells for $500.

For bumpers I'm looking at Al because I'm trying to keep the weight in check, leaning towards Genright but haven't decided yet. But in all honestly there are endless stiles and choices to pick from.
Ditto on aluminum stuff. I am looking at getting a motorhome down the road and weight can be an issue.

Both the MC and the Smittybuilt hinges are nice, but like the Jeep hinge they lack a "rest" on the drivers side to relief stress. On my LJ I have a rest that supports the added weight. This could be fabbed up and integrated pretty easy. But 500-600 bucks for these tells me I'm building my own hinge.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 11:00 PM
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Imho, 35s on stock or 1" poly springs. They will net more like 3" if you keep the rest of the rig light. I have them and 37s on my sport.

Belly armor if and when you start dragging the belly. With 35s and short springs that will happen sooner than later.

Axle housing, upgraded one is probably better. Don't throw any money at either housing. Buy a new housing if and when you are having issues.

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2004 Dodge CTD, with stuff
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2017 JKU sport, just 60s
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Imho, 35s on stock or 1" poly springs. They will net more like 3" if you keep the rest of the rig light. I have them and 37s on my sport.
Poly Springs? You mean the synergy springs?

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Belly armor if and when you start dragging the belly. With 35s and short springs that will happen sooner than later.
I'll go with aluminum on this Jeep as I want to keep the added on weight at a minimum. Artec looks good. Not cheap though.

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Originally Posted by inline6 View Post
Axle housing, upgraded one is probably better. Don't throw any money at either housing. Buy a new housing if and when you are having issues.
How about sleeving the axle before I bend it? Synergy makes a nice looking kit.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 10:09 AM
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Yes, the Synergy springs. I forget that poly is "no longer" synergy. If you are interested in some 3" springs Ill make you a deal.

yep on aluminum, again, I would wait a bit to see what armor you need. I use to say belly pan to start. But the stock stuff works if you are not trying to slide over rocks all the time.

On the sleeving... By the time you pull the gears, do all the labor, and re gear, cause you are going to... I've seen the labor around $1000 to sleeve, plus the sleeves and gussets. Not to mention if you are going to re-gear or any of that stuff.

I put a teraflex 44 under the old rubi, 1800 is about what I paid for the housing. Looking like 2300 list now, I'm sure deals could be had. Then installed it and swapped over what I could. Then paid 1600 for the front and rear to be geared and re-geared. So I was about 2400 to re gear and have a better housing than a sleeved housing. About $800 or so more than sleeving and re-gearing.

Now there is the currie option as well as the dynatrac option.

To me, at the end of the day, its not much more to have a completely better housing.





Ill also say, I skipped the Rubi route on the latest JKU and just went with UD60s to start with on a sport. I grew tired of chasing the 44s with spot upgrades. I didn't do a build thread here, since its not a rubi...

2003 Rubicon, with stuff
2004 Dodge CTD, with stuff
2011 Rubicon, gone
2017 JKU sport, just 60s
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